Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
